Wednesday, December 28, 2011

An Effort to Make Sense


It’s amazing what can happen in a day.

Yesterday, I lost my dear friend Bryan Raybon to cancer. He recently turned 33 years old, two years older than I will be tomorrow. I’m still trying to figure out what all of this means to me.
After finding out, I was at a loss for what to do. I couldn’t cry. I couldn’t scream. I just felt numb, unable to process this thing that had happened so far away and yet meant so much to me. I went for a long walk in the chacras to try and get some clarity, but found none. Understandably distracted when I returned home, I had forgotten that my host family had planned to celebrate my birthday yesterday since we wouldn’t be able to celebrate it on my actual birthday. I was reminded by my host niece, Beri Luz, running into my room singing “Feliz Cumpleaños” and excitedly talking about my cake waiting for me downstairs. Trying to regroup, I headed downstairs to try and clear my head and was immediately touched by the little celebration my host family put together, complete with beautifully arranged plates of delicious food and several rounds of “Feliz Cumpleaños” before we all devoured the gorgeous chocolate cake they had purchased. The only thing was, my buddy and host nephew, Cesir, was nowhere to be found and no one knew where he was. I gave them all hugs before heading out the door to a scheduled meeting I had with a youth dance group to talk with them about “Gringos Útiles.”
I had been torturously waiting all of December for someone in my site to show me some form of motivation toward my project. After delivering my shpeel about what I hoped to accomplish with “Gringos Útiles,” the organizer of the group, a man I’m coming to respect exponentially every time I hang out with him asked if he could include his group in my plans. He wanted to offer workshops to begin teaching other youth in town how to do the traditional dances that his group has become so well-known for. This was exactly what I was hoping would happen as a result of my work here, but was expecting it much farther down the line. Of course, I was floored and made arrangements to begin incorporating his group into my plans for January.
While with this group, a car drove up driven by my soccer coach friend with three guys from my soccer team in the back seat, one of which was Cesir. They wanted me to hop in and head off with them, but I explained that I was in the middle of something and it would have to wait. They said they’d be back in 20 mins. Needless to say, I was confused and they wouldn’t provide any details.
I finished with the youth group and phoned the coach. He came and picked me up and took me to a restaurant in town where a group of guys from my soccer team were all sitting at a table. I greeted all of them and noticed a giant cake on the table. The coach told me that Cesir had informed him my birthday was coming up and that they wanted to do something special for me. I looked at Cesir and he just smiled and asked me whether I was surprised. Overwhelmed by their kindness, I wasn’t sure what to say. In my best bad Castellano, I thanked them all for being my friends and for allowing me to be a part of their team. It was a truly beautiful gesture and I felt extremely grateful once again for this beautiful community I’ve been gifted with.
The last time I talked to Bryan on the phone was particularly difficult. The person I knew sounded different. He was understandably bitter about what was happening to him, having to plan his own memorial in his early 30s. He was in a lot of pain, not wanting to overly dope himself up with painkillers. The sarcastic wit and merciless sense of humor I had come to know and love and that helped us use laughter as a way of processing the horrors of what his cancer diagnosis meant was gone, replaced by a blunted version of himself, very much staring the empty question of death in the face.
I remember feeling extremely impotent during and after this conversation with him, unable to rely on who we had been before I left as a guide for how to interact with him then. And yet, even through all of that, he was able to say something I will never forget. He told me that he was so proud of me for doing what I’m doing here in Perú and that he wished he’d had more time in his life to do the kinds of things I was doing in my life. As much as it killed me to hear him talk like that, I respected the brutal honesty with which he made that statement.
I have a feeling for the rest of my life the magnitude of what can happen in a day will always be something that has the potential to sucker-punch the shit out of me or to fill me with awe and gratitude for existing. Or both simultaneously. I’d like to think that Bryan has left me and so many others some sense of wisdom about our own lives as a result of what he went through: while there are always reasons to put off those things you want to do with your life, no tomorrow is more tangible than today.
As much as I struggle to see how something so horrible happening to such a beautiful human being can be spun positively, I can’t help but think about how I’ve grown and gotten to know myself better as a result of how I reacted to his illness. He taught me that when someone is going through something horrible in their lives, the last thing they want is for everyone to start treating them like a victim. He also taught me that a well-timed cancer joke can be just as therapeutic as a quick squirt of morphine from an IV. His last lesson was to teach me that friendship apparently does not end at death; it’s just a little harder than making a long-distance phone call from Perú. For these lessons and more I will be forever changed as a result of knowing Bryan Raybon. Just looking at the hundreds of messages of love on Facebook alone, I have a feeling I’m not the only one he’s affected this profoundly and knowing this helps me deal with some of the hurt.
I’ll end this with my favorite short piece written by Borges:
Delia Elena San Marco
We said goodbye at one of the corners of Plaza Once. From the opposite pavement, I looked back; you had turned to wave. It was five o’clock in the afternoon. A river of traffic and people ran between us. How could I have known that that river was the sad Acheron, from which there is no return?
We did not see each other again, and a year later you were dead. Calling up that memory now, I look at it and think it was false. Behind our inconsequential parting was eternal separation.
After dinner last night I did not go out but, in an effort to understand these things, I reread Plato’s last teaching, which he put into his master’s mouth. When the flesh dies, I read, the soul escapes. Now I no longer know whether the truth lies in Plato’s dismal view or in our innocent farewell. Because if souls do not die, it’s quite right that goodbyes should not be overstated.
To say farewell is to deny separation. It is to say, ‘Today we played at separating but tomorrow we’ll see each other again.’ Men have invented farewells because they know they are in some way immortal, even if they think themselves incidental and ephemeral.
Delia, one day – beside what river? – we shall resume this indeterminate conversation and ask each other if once, in a city that was lost on a plain, we were Borges and Delia.



Thank you for being, Bryan.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

So It Goes

So, Thanksgiving has come and gone, Christmas is on the way and my 31st birthday is frolicking merrily on the horizon. And here I am, about a month later writing another blog post. In the words of the late, great Kurt Vonnegut: “So it goes.”
So, speaking of Thanksgiving, we had a pretty sweet one, us volunteers, considering we were all away from home. Thanks to the extensive planning efforts of Ms. Sue Song, Youth Development presidente extraordinaire, myself and a bunch of youthie (and several small business) volunteers made plans to pass the three Thanksgiving vacation days so kindly provided to us by Peace Corps in the department of La Libertad, two departments south of Piura. All the youth volunteers were heading to Olmos, just outside of Chiclayo in Lambayeque, the department between Piura and La Libertad, immediately after the Thanksgiving holiday for what’s called Early In-Service Training (EIST), so we figured why not converge somewhere in the middle for some merriment before a week of training.
We spent the first night, Thanksgiving day, in Trujillo, Peru’s second largest city. After a delicious breakfast with real coffee (!!!) and a brief walking tour of the city, we passed the remainder of the day up on the roof of the hostel hanging out with volunteers from other groups that happened to be in town for their own Thanksgiving plans.
The next day we went to Huanchaco, one of the more well-known beach spots in Peru. It’s basically a chilled out surfer/gringo-friendly community about 30 minutes west of Trujillo on the coast. Definitely a fan. We stayed at an awesome hostel on the beach with a freaking vegetarian restaurant right next to it. I couldn’t believe it. A couple of highlights from the menu: burritos with curry-infused tortillas, falafel (!!!) and apple pie with ice cream. Super delicious.
After a couple of days on the beach and lounging around the hostel, we made plans for a giant Thanksgiving feast to go down the Saturday after Thanksgiving. Plans were made with the hostel so that we could use their kitchen for the two hours between their lunch and dinner hours, so we had to plan accordingly to be in and out with all of our stuff baked, cooked and cleaned. Dibs had already been called on the mashed potatoes (as my family can attest, around holiday season I’m a pretty lethal mashed-potatoer), so I offered to make my patented (as in I stole it from a recipe I found on about.com) vegan green bean casserole.*
*Tip: When lacking the delicious crispy French friend onion thingies for the topping, a good substitute is a large bag of the delicious mini papas fritas they’re so fond of dumping on their burgers here. Not quite the same, but pretty damn good, nonetheless.
All those involved with the actual cooking crammed into the industrial-size kitchen at the hostel and we commenced with gettin’ down. It was a beautiful effort really. We had volunteers in the bathroom of one of the rooms washing all of the fruit and vegetables in the shower, other volunteers in the other kitchen peeling the shitloads of potatoes, other volunteers making last-minute runs for supplies and of course, my group, cookin’ up some sweet lovin’ in the kitchen. After the two hours were up, we somehow managed to finish almost everything and have the kitchen relatively cleaned up.
The menu went as follows (I’m sure I’m leaving something out):
-a bunch of Pollo a la Brasa (basically rotisserie chicken substituted for the turkey because turkeys cost a shitload apparently)
-a mountain of bread
-assorted roasted vegetables
-a massive 5-6 cheese (I don’t remember how many different types of cheese were thrown in there. I just know it was delicious) mac’n’cheese
-sweet potato casserole thingie (also delicious)
-vegan green bean casserole
-fresh salad (very much a rarity in whatever part of Peru you live in)
-absolutely drop dead amazing stuffing (love, love, LOVE stuffing!)
-THREE different types of mashed potatoes!!! (all of which showed up anything I’ve been able to churn out in the past)
-delicious fruit punch mix
-copious bottles of sweet Peruvian wine
For dessert:
-make-me-weak-in-the-knees apple crisp
-chocolate peanut butter no-bake cookies (which due to a lack of prep time, ended up looking more like one giant glob of gooey chocolate goodness and were no less delicious as a result)
-fresh fruit salad
-4 different flavors of ice cream
Needless to say, I was cursing my gag reflex by the end of the night for not allowing me to eat more of that delicious goodness.
After dinner, I walked around with some friends looking for a dance club only to stumble across a secret jam session going on inside of a house that doubles as a pizzeria during the day. We sat on mats on the floor, kind of like in a Persian restaurant, and listened to some locals getting down to some traditional Peruvian songs complete with guitar, massive reed flutes and a huge cajon (pronounced ka-HONE), one of my favorite instruments in Peru. It’s essentially a rectangular-shaped wooden box that you sit on to play and that has a hole cut out of the back with metal strings strapped to the front panel on the inside to provide a snare drum sound, but can also produce a deeper, bassy sound depending on where you strike the box with your hand.
After the T-giving festivities, we all headed out from Trujillo to Olmos, about 5 hours north in the department of Lambayeque, to start our EIST.
EIST was interesting. It was fantastic getting to see everyone who didn’t make it to the Thanksgiving festivities and being back in a training atmosphere definitely had a positive effect on my motivation for when I returned to site.



Us learning (that's me in the Perú 17 shirt)
  
AIDS Day tent in Plaza de Armas, Olmos

My favorite parts were, without a doubt, getting to sing a super catchy song my buddy Zack wrote and performing socio dramas to educate about the ABCs of prevention (A=abstinencia, B=brindar fidelidad, basically “be faithful” and C=condon) for the youth in Olmos and the following day in Zaña, Zack’s site, for World AIDS day. As always seems to be the case with these socio dramas (at least, when I’m not playing a baby), I played the sleezy boyfriend who wants to get his fuck on. Oh, yeah. And I almost got to wear a condom suit, but we opted instead to let Zack wear it and be the singing condom.


Me "pretending" to be a guy who wants to get his fuck on (with my friend Brielle)

Dr. House says so (this show's actually pretty popular here)



Our AIDS Day Mascot

Informational Tent in Plaza de Armas, Olmos

Some alumnas sporting educational banners in Olmos
 


Yup. That's me.

Me taking a walk with Zack in some ruins from the 1400s in Zaña

Here's a pic of me breakin' it down on a super
old suspension bridge in Zaña.



Speaking of AIDS-related issues, I was asked to be the HIV/AIDS commitee representative for my department, which means I get to promote HIV/AIDS prevention events in the volunteers in Piura, visit volunteers currently doing projects regarding HIV education, help volunteers apply for grants and twice a year I go to Lima with the comittee to plan for the year. I'm still figuring out my role, but am super excited about what this will entail for my work here.
Returning to site after almost two weeks away proved to be much more difficult than I had expected. This was exacerbated by the fact that I not only had no work lined up, but no one wanted to do anything, supplying me with the same excuse every time: “Es mejor que esperar hasta el Año Nuevo. Todos están bien ocupado con la Navidad,” “It’s better to wait until the New Year. Everyone’s busy with Christmas.” Mind you, this is the response I received when I returned Dec. 2nd, roughly three weeks before Christmas.
Needless to say, my goal-oriented gringo ways could not immediately accept this fact and I went about several days in a row trying to shake down my socios for work and getting more exasperated in the process. Eventually, I had to succumb to the spirit of the season and acknowledge that maybe it was time to take a different approach.

During the summer here (Janurary and February), the kids all get out of school for two months and some attend what is called Vacaciones Útiles, meaning "useful vacations." Try as I might to figure out exactly what this would mean in my site (even asking the guy supposedly in charge ended up being more confusing than if I hadn't), it's supposed to be a time where kids who haven't been able to pass their classes or need some extra help can recieve it and all the other kids can just fuck around for two months.

Seeing as how I was not willing to sit on my ass and do nothing for two months while all the youth in my site had all this free time, I came up with what I have deemed Gringos Útiles, essentially "useful gringos." With this program I hope to employ the help of other volunteers close to my site to have joint events in between our sites with the youth while simultaneously offering the youth a place to come and hang out that's safe, fun and, hopefully, educational and giving them a chance to utilize our vast wealth of gringo knowledge. I'm currently planning each week's events and trying to figure out the budget right now, but with some help from my socios I'm pretty sure I can get this project going.

Okay, that's enough for now. I'm getting eaten alive by the massive swarm of mosquitoes that have invaded my site in the last week. Little bastards are everywhere. Looks like bug repellant is getting added to my daily routine after bathing and slathering myself in sunscreen.

Love to everyone! And since I will likely not get around to writing another post until after New Year's, Happy Christmas, Happy My Birthday (December 29th, in case you were wondering) and Happy and Safe New Year!!!